Returned this past weekend from four days in the interior of Yellowstone searching for evidence of winter. Fortunately, good times with great friends made up for the lack of photo opps and we did have a wonderful morning at West Thumb Geyser Basin, thanks to temperatures which fell below zero and produced images worthy of any Winter Wonderland. But we were all gobsmacked (term borrowed from English friends) at the lack of snow throughout much of YNP, especially in the geyser basins. The cone and area surrounding Old Faithful is mostly free of snow, as is the majority of Geyser Hill. Likewise, Black Sand and Biscuit Basins. There is snow in Hayden Valley but the beautiful cornices near the Grizzly Overlook have not formed this year. And an amazing ice cone at The Falls – but in the usual crappo light. I am working on the record for number of images taken at The Falls in really bad winter light and/or snow. On second thought, I think I am already there. No contest.

The normal winter wildlife also seems to be somewhere else; no snow-crusted bison, no herds blocking the boardwalks at Old Faithful, no elk along the Firehole. There were, however, the predictable bison herd at Mud Volcano (walking up the boardwalk), a sleek and graceful otter at Alum Creek, and a lovely fat beaver at Otter Creek. And a few very fluffy coyotes.

But here’s the thing . . . even when not at its photographic best, Yellowstone still never ceases to delight and amaze and any trip into the interior in winter is both spectacular and surprising. The snow feathers on the trees at Beryl Springs and along the boardwalk by Black Pool at West Thumb were worth the trip all by themselves. Or the ice crystals that had grown between two pieces of grass into a cone shape that looked just like a popsicle. Or the constantly shapeshifting steam in the thermal areas which first hides and then momentarily reveals a perfect snow-laden ghost tree. It’s all perfect.

At least for now. Current summer forecast is for smoke.