It is summer in Yellowstone. Finally. Not just a cool and rainy late spring slowly giving way to warmer days, but instant overnight firecracker hot summer. The prickly pear are blooming on the dry hills outside of Gardiner, and a cloud of young grasshoppers scatters at every step. It’s so bright, it is difficult to focus.
Bears and tourists are everywhere, and the ensuing bear jams provide textbook examples of jaw dropping stupid human behavior. For thirty years, I have often contemplated this overwhelming fascination with bears. Big ones, little ones, black bears, grizzly bears; for so many, it seems the only reason for a trip to Yellowstone, although a few visitors are also interested in wolves. The beavers on Swan Lake Flats have recently engineered a lovely little dam right next to the road, creating a perfect reflecting pond, but no one notices. There have been five ruddy ducks at Floating Island Lake (even one is a big treat), doing their best to convince the girls to have their babies by displaying an amazing ability to run across the water. I am the only one who stops. But getting out of the car with binoculars creates an instant traffic jam with people asking, Where is the bear? Please don’t misinterpret, I also love the bears, but there is so so much more to Yellowstone. The fauna, all of them, the flora, the quiet parts, the personal moments, the geology and topography, the profound interconnectedness of it all. This is Yellowstone.